Piece of an early-to-mid 19th century silver biaude clasp

This is part of a silver clasp which would have been used to close fine men’s blouses, called biaudes, which were often indigo-dyed and worn for special occasions, notably weddings.

The tradition of closing the necks of shirts with precious clasps is very old - pieces with similar functions have been found in Iron Age or Viking burial mounds or Roman settlements. Those clasps often had symbols representing something important to the wearer, and so does this one. This is in the shape of a scallop shell, representing the Apostle James - the pilgrimage route taken to St James’s church in northern Spain is the oldest and most revered in Western Europe and passes through a number of major French towns. The scallop shell in France represents faith, the lines on the shell represent the many paths the pilgrims would take to reach their single destination - Santiago de Compostela in Galicia.

This piece is missing its little ring, which has snapped off, and with it has gone the silver stamp or poinçon, which would have been stamped onto the ring, and there would have been a short chain attached to the other end. Initially this would have been one of a pair - the other piece would have had a small hook to attach it to the short chain, and both halves would have been stitched to either side of the shirt collar using the rings at the back. This would make a lovely little amulet or centrepiece for a necklace or other piece of jewellery.

It measures 3cm wide by 3.2cm high.

Please click on the photos to open them up full-sized.

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