Dutch indigo resist neckerchief #2
These kerchiefs are an amazing example of how textile traditions, motifs and techniques travel across cultures. This is a resist-printed cotton, and I am told that these are Dutch, although very similar textiles existed in Austria, Poland and Hungary. Originally, these would have been indigo-dyed. I am not sure if this one is indigo-dyed with natural indigo - the odds are against it because it is post 1860’s - it was rare in Europe to find mass-produced textiles made using real indigo after synthetic indigo was synthesised. And these are mass-produced, or rather were produced in large quantities, because these are also hand-done.
They have been dyed using a resist technique of paste or wax, which is a technique that travelled to the Netherlands and from there into Europe through the Dutch colonialisation of Indonesia. The original indigo would have come from India. These are cotton, which is also not a European textile, and the cotton in these ones would have come either from India or from West Africa, again via colonialisation. The motifs also show signs of their Indian and Indonesian heritage.
These were I think working-mens neckerchiefs, tied around the neck to keep dirt and grease at bay. We tend to think that high fashion adopting workwear trends is a relatively new phenomenon, but this is not true, and I think these were also produced eventually for the more fashionable set. (As an aside one of the biggest trends of the 1880’s and 90’s were cloaks and skirts inspired by fisherwomen, and the panniered heavy skirts of the late 18th century also had their source of inspiration in the way working women would tuck up their overskirts, leaving their petticoats visible).
In turn, these neckerchiefs became the visual inspiration for the American bandanna, you can see the motifs echoed in modern bandannas, as is the style of tying quite small scarves around the neck. Their size developed from actual handkerchiefs, of which I have several 19th century examples - working men and women would use plain handkerchiefs to cover their hair or their necks whilst doing dusty or sweaty labour, and then over the years hankie manufacturers, seeing this use, made their products slightly bigger and began adding pretty motifs.
So, a brief history. This one is early 20th century. It is in excellent condition, and has machine-stitched hems. It measures 61×67cm.
Please click on the photos to open them up full-sized.
To purchase, please contact me.
These kerchiefs are an amazing example of how textile traditions, motifs and techniques travel across cultures. This is a resist-printed cotton, and I am told that these are Dutch, although very similar textiles existed in Austria, Poland and Hungary. Originally, these would have been indigo-dyed. I am not sure if this one is indigo-dyed with natural indigo - the odds are against it because it is post 1860’s - it was rare in Europe to find mass-produced textiles made using real indigo after synthetic indigo was synthesised. And these are mass-produced, or rather were produced in large quantities, because these are also hand-done.
They have been dyed using a resist technique of paste or wax, which is a technique that travelled to the Netherlands and from there into Europe through the Dutch colonialisation of Indonesia. The original indigo would have come from India. These are cotton, which is also not a European textile, and the cotton in these ones would have come either from India or from West Africa, again via colonialisation. The motifs also show signs of their Indian and Indonesian heritage.
These were I think working-mens neckerchiefs, tied around the neck to keep dirt and grease at bay. We tend to think that high fashion adopting workwear trends is a relatively new phenomenon, but this is not true, and I think these were also produced eventually for the more fashionable set. (As an aside one of the biggest trends of the 1880’s and 90’s were cloaks and skirts inspired by fisherwomen, and the panniered heavy skirts of the late 18th century also had their source of inspiration in the way working women would tuck up their overskirts, leaving their petticoats visible).
In turn, these neckerchiefs became the visual inspiration for the American bandanna, you can see the motifs echoed in modern bandannas, as is the style of tying quite small scarves around the neck. Their size developed from actual handkerchiefs, of which I have several 19th century examples - working men and women would use plain handkerchiefs to cover their hair or their necks whilst doing dusty or sweaty labour, and then over the years hankie manufacturers, seeing this use, made their products slightly bigger and began adding pretty motifs.
So, a brief history. This one is early 20th century. It is in excellent condition, and has machine-stitched hems. It measures 61×67cm.
Please click on the photos to open them up full-sized.
To purchase, please contact me.
These kerchiefs are an amazing example of how textile traditions, motifs and techniques travel across cultures. This is a resist-printed cotton, and I am told that these are Dutch, although very similar textiles existed in Austria, Poland and Hungary. Originally, these would have been indigo-dyed. I am not sure if this one is indigo-dyed with natural indigo - the odds are against it because it is post 1860’s - it was rare in Europe to find mass-produced textiles made using real indigo after synthetic indigo was synthesised. And these are mass-produced, or rather were produced in large quantities, because these are also hand-done.
They have been dyed using a resist technique of paste or wax, which is a technique that travelled to the Netherlands and from there into Europe through the Dutch colonialisation of Indonesia. The original indigo would have come from India. These are cotton, which is also not a European textile, and the cotton in these ones would have come either from India or from West Africa, again via colonialisation. The motifs also show signs of their Indian and Indonesian heritage.
These were I think working-mens neckerchiefs, tied around the neck to keep dirt and grease at bay. We tend to think that high fashion adopting workwear trends is a relatively new phenomenon, but this is not true, and I think these were also produced eventually for the more fashionable set. (As an aside one of the biggest trends of the 1880’s and 90’s were cloaks and skirts inspired by fisherwomen, and the panniered heavy skirts of the late 18th century also had their source of inspiration in the way working women would tuck up their overskirts, leaving their petticoats visible).
In turn, these neckerchiefs became the visual inspiration for the American bandanna, you can see the motifs echoed in modern bandannas, as is the style of tying quite small scarves around the neck. Their size developed from actual handkerchiefs, of which I have several 19th century examples - working men and women would use plain handkerchiefs to cover their hair or their necks whilst doing dusty or sweaty labour, and then over the years hankie manufacturers, seeing this use, made their products slightly bigger and began adding pretty motifs.
So, a brief history. This one is early 20th century. It is in excellent condition, and has machine-stitched hems. It measures 61×67cm.
Please click on the photos to open them up full-sized.
To purchase, please contact me.